designed a dudou of pink leather and Miu Miu unveiled a summer collection with many garments that had hints of the dudou.

Dudous were originally designed as underwear which would never have been revealed in public.

These ancient bras were a common undergarment during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) when they were first designed and also in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Dudous are cut very simple - just a square or rhomboidal piece of silk with ribbons that tie around the neck and the back. (See pictures).

Traditional dudous were mostly made of silk yarn or crepe edged with brocade. Young women would use bright-coloured brocade of red, pink or green. They would also embroider flowers, butterflies or mandarin ducks which symbolize love on the front of dudous.

This colourful lingerie would be completely concealed beneath abundant outer layers by "decent" women, though some daring dressers might allow a small edge to show through - anything more and they would be considered a loose woman.

At that time, a dudou was worn to flatten rather than highlight the breasts. In ancient China, a curvy figure was considered a temptation and a thing of sin while a flat chest was thought graceful.

Hundreds of years later, women are no longer constrained by the same concepts of how they should dress. They are more comfortable about showing off their beautiful figures. "It's beauty not shame," said one young woman trying on a dudou in Grand Gateway.

Old notions that women should cover up have gradually been eroded with clothes coming into fashion that expose the shoulders, the waist, the belly-button and the back; also see-through materials and trousers that sit on the hips. Now even a dudou need no longer be hidden; this handkerchief-size garment with its elaborate designs and pretty colours can be worn for all to see.

Small stores along Shaanxi Road and Huating Road sell dudous, which are very popular with young women. Some are traditional Chinese dudous made of red brocade and decorated with embroidery. Some are Western in style with details such as beads and cut with low necks or in see-though fabrics.

Store keepers said some of the new arrivals are imported from Europe and South Korea with prices ranging from 300 yuan ($36) to 600 yuan ($72).

Only a few women actually buy a dudou after trying it on, according to one store owner, though many are immediately drawn to them when they first come into the shop. "I think it's so beautiful but I am not brave enough to wear it in front of other people," said one woman.

Dudous are not for everyone.

It's worth bearing in mind, for example, that dudous cannot be worn with a bra which may make some women uncomfortable.

A dudou should not be worn with a mini-skirt, hot-pants or anything too skimpy. Very small tops need to be worn with long trousers or a long skirt to look elegant and achieve some balance.

If you want to wear a dudou, but aren't comfortable about exposing so much flesh, you can either wear a fitted off-the-shoulder top inside or a coat made of see-through yarn outside your dudou.

You can even make an improvised dudou from an oriental scarf. Knot the two top corners around your neck and the bottom corners around the back.