TUESDAY JANUARY 18 2000      PUBLISHED BY CHINA DAILY
                                                           FEATURE

More women choose red wine
THERE has long been a perception that US women prefer to sip delicate white wines, but growing evidence suggests many really lust after the lingering taste of a muscular, robust red.

Ivorian reggae icon basks in new glory
REGGAE icon Alpha Blondy is angry, fearless and non-conformist and some of his politically provocative songs have been banned from the airwaves of his native Cote d'Ivoire.

Sweet smell of success, popularity of perfume
By Susan Xu

ONCE an extravagance out of the reach of many, perfume has evolved into an essential over the course of the last century.

To many it is now much more than a fragrance, it is a language, an art, a culture.

Paul Poiret, the famous garment designer, was the first to make an art out of perfume bottles. He began to get interested in the design of perfume bottles in 1911, making them chic to match the clothes of his fashion house.

In the 1920s, several classic scents were launched such as Chanel No 5. A Chanel designer offered a choice of 10 scents, and company executives chose the fifth, hence the name. About 70 years on, Chanel No 5 is still a No 1 choice with many women.

Perfume and art really fused in the 1930s. During the period, art was at its zenith in Paris, and many perfume bottle designers co-operated with artists. Elsa Schiaparelli's perfume "Shocking" caused a real sensation in the fashion world with a sensual bottle in the form of a woman's body.

In the 1940s, peace became the major theme of scent bottle design. Artist Marc Lalique designed a two-dove crystal bottle representing his hope for peace after World War II.

The 1950s were characterized by avant-garde from the US. Estee Lauder created "Youth Dew" in 1953. The new spray had a strong and long-lasting fragrance. It could also be used as bath lotion.

The perfume of the 1960s reflected women's glamour with pure and delicate fragrances and simple but chic packaging such as Yves Saint Laurent's "Y."

Yves Saint Laurent played an important role again in the 1970s. He presented Opium which has a kind of dream-like quality and oriental style. But this perfume has been pulled from shelves recently in China because of its name which still has the power to evoke bad feelings about the Opium Wars of 1840 to 1842. The taste of the 1980s was romantic. McClintock's perfume of the time attracted a lot of followers with its delicacy and mildness.

In the last decade of the last century, classical taste made a comeback. "Tresor" was released in 1990 by Lancome, said by a company spokesman to be a classic. Designer Sophia Grosjman called it "a fragrance of embrace." Lancome has a long history in perfumes reaching back to 1935 when the company introduced "Conquete," "Revolte," "Tropiques," "Bocages" and "Kypre."

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