PEOPLE often complain that there are not enough entertainment and dining venues in Pudong. The few restaurants and cafes along Binjiang Avenue, on the opposite side of the river to the dazzling Bund, are often fully occupied. Under these circumstances, good restaurants are difficult to find, except for very expensive ones.

That is why Xsensation was opened on July 1 on the 47th floor of the Sofitel Jin Jiang Oriental Pudong, according to Gerhard Zimmer, general manager of the hotel.

Attached to a revolving bar on the 46th floor, the French restaurant is quite small with few seats ¡ª 35 in total ¡ª and seemingly devoted to an exclusive clientele of gourmets who can really appreciate the creations of the newly appointed chef Didier Quennouelle, who worked in five Michelin star restaurants in France.

The shy chef who does not speak any English seemed less than fully accustomed to his new life in Shanghai. He looked quite stiff, especially when devoting himself to cooking in the kitchen. His communications depend on his Chinese assistant, who was once trained in France.

The first thing Quennouelle did after his arrival was to visit local markets to find products he could use in his cooking.

Right after the first course the chef prepared was served at a special tasting session, many appreciative sounds arose among the guests. The food was oyster cannelloni, goose fat liver and vermicelli and chicken emulsion jus, a selection that astounded the diners.

Placed under and inside the Chinese spring-roll-like cannelloni was foie gras. The goose liver supporting the cannelloni was cold as usual, but that inside was hot and mixed with vermicelli and oyster, which made the fillings velvety and aromatic. Diners could either dip the roll into the chicken emulsion jus or leave the juice for the mint and refreshing vegetable beside it.

Another signature dish came next ¡ª lobster and roasted pigeon, pan-fried fresh morels and sauteed artichokes with crab sauce. The pigeon was roasted to a chocolate colour and still juicy inside. The lobster had been gently cooked to keep its original taste. The intensely flavoured sauce went better with the fragrant pigeon than the lighter tasting lobster.

Quennouelle has fixed a theme for the menu of Xsensation, which is ¡°land and sea,¡± reflecting the location of the city. Therefore, diners find oyster and goose liver, pigeon and lobster on the same plate.

However, the dessert, warm clafoutis, petit sable and Italian ice cream, were over sweet.

All the dishes I tried were in family style without flowery presen-tation, but the taste was irresistible.

Xsensation

Opening hours: 6:30 pm-10:30 pm from Tuesday to Saturday

899 Yanggao Nanlu (off Nancun Lu)

Tel: 5050-4888

Average cost: 980 yuan (US$118) for a five-course set menu