THE Wine Bar & Grill has the Chinese name "Cang Cheng Fang" - given by a monk to bless the newly opened restaurant in the Shanghai JC Mandarin hotel with business success. Chef Christoph Gelder's arrival at the grill has made that outcome more certain.

Having worked with Michelin Star rated restaurants in Germany, Italy and Britain, Gelder explained his culinary philosophy: "I take the best products available and blend them with the full depth of flavour possible."

Since he has been with the hotel for only a few weeks, Gelder hasn't had time to change the entire menu of the restaurant, only a few of his signature main courses have been added to the Antipasto Buffet Lunch now presented in the restaurant.

On the buffet table there are appetizers and soups at choice, for instance, warm crispy goat cheese parcels on beet root salad drizzled with orange vinaigrette, pan-seared fresh goose liver on sauteed mango and baby leek finished with a balsamic butter sauce, and tossed garden salad with fried sesame prawns and citrus dressing.

The main dishes, including steak and fish, are changed daily and are written up on a small blackboard.

Gelder's black cod with basil risotto really impressed me - the fish was cooked crispy on the outside while still succulent and sweet on the inside, and the refreshing fragrance of the light green basil risotto added an intense creamy flavour.

The dessert called Sabayon, a traditional Italian dish, also brought us a surprise. It looked like plain whipped cream but after several spoonfuls of the alcohol-flavoured cream we discovered some chocolate ice cream underneath. The cool sensation went well with the slightly warm cream.

Wine Bar & Grill

3F, JC Mandarin, 1225 Nanjing Xilu

Tel: 6279-1888

Average cost: 68 yuan (US$8) plus 15 surcharge for antipasto only, and 98 yuan (US$12) with surcharge for one more main course