FOR those whose palates are too "highly evolved" to accept the fresh sea smell of raw oysters, there is now a new opportunity to fall in love with this slippery ocean species, which is described by its fans as an "unsurpassable delicacy".

Chefs at the Manhattan Steakhouse of the Marriott Hotel Hongqiao have just presented a new creation which makes the taste of raw oysters less fishy but more haunting, perfect as accompaniments for their specially designed vodka martinis.

Until March 20, guests of the steakhouse can try this unique "oyster & vodka" menu.

The idea for the combination was based on the fact that the strong and cool taste of spirits can take the edge off the fishiness of oysters, while whetting the appetite of diners, said the restaurant's German chef.

Eager to taste the unique flavour yielded from the combination, I made a trial at the restaurant on an evening before the Lunar New Year, together with some friends, all of whom were oyster lovers.

It took about half an hour to drive from the city centre to the restaurant, which is located on the second floor of the Marriott Hotel Hongqiao. In rush hours, it would take longer, but for those seeking a good dining experience, the long journey is worthwhile.

The interior design of the restaurant is simple and elegant. The dining room is designed like a classic American steakhouse, with influences from Chicago and New York City evident throughout.

The walls of the steakhouse are hung with black and white pictures of 1930s New York. Tunes from Broadway musicals from that period gently resonate in the restaurant and transport guests back across the Pacific into the New York of the last century. The music and the low lighting create a warm dining atmosphere.

We followed the chef's recommendation for "four oysters topped with mandarin caviar served with Thai lime" as a starter.

The fresh, raw oysters dotted with caviar lying tenderly on their shells were served on a bed of crushed ice.

All the oysters had been transported by air directly from their Scottish ocean origins, so there was no concern about their safety, the chef said.

The slippery morsel was fresh and bore a taste of the sea. The match with a vodka martini (at the price of 48 yuan or US$5.80), which tasted a little sweet and had a lingering finish, turned out to be a sensational blend of flavours.

But don't worry if you have an aversion to raw oysters. On our continued "oyster adventure" we discovered that the martinis also go well with stewed oysters.

The restaurant has a variety of stewed oyster dishes. Top recommendations of the chef included oysters provencal in garlic butter and French bread, and lobster tail thermidor with oyster and spinach topped with hollandaise. A cheese flavour permeated the oysters in both dishes.

Do leave some room for the special oyster creme brulee dessert. The dessert was served in an oyster shell, melting in the mouth with a lingering rich flavour.

According to the chef, the average price for an oyster set menu including a nice vodka martini, starter, main course and dessert is around 400 yuan (US$48) with service charge included.

The restaurant is open every evening from 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm. As there are only 32 seats, a reservation is recommended.

Manhattan Steakhouse Restaurant

Second floor at the Shanghai Marriott Hotel Hongqiao

2270 Hongqiao Lu near Jianhe Lu

Tel: 6237-6000 ext 6633