HANGHAINESE tailors are the best in the world," declares Henry Chiu, himself a tailor who has recently expanded his Hong Kong business to Shanghai. Not only are local tailors famous around the country, but today foreigners and tourists from all over the world are coming to Shanghai to take advantage of this 150-year-old tradition.

The booming 1930s was a time when Shanghai was a world fashion centre and every woman owned a beautifully tailored qipao and every man a neatly tailored suit.

However, Shanghainese tailors haven't always seen good times. They have experienced many turbulent years including labour strikes at the end of the 19th century and the "cultural revolution" (1966-76) which led to a decade-long break in the tradition. During this time, many of the best tailors fled to Hong Kong to take advantage of the booming 1960s and 1970s. For business people, tourists and American soldiers on leave from the Viet Nam war, tailoring was all the rage.

Tailors in China remain very popular among Westerners and the centre for high-quality garments and cheaper tailoringhas moved from Hong Kong back to Shanghai.

On any given day, you will find the Dongjiadu cloth market bustling with foreigners and Chinese alike. Foreigners have discovered several advantages in custom-made clothes. "Nothing fits like a custom-made garment" states one regular customer who works in the film business. Many expatriates in Shanghai find it difficult to shop in local stores, as sizes and tastes of Westerners differ.

"Chinese trousers come up to my knees," said Michael Schulkins, a 188cm (6ft 3in) fashion-conscious student who was hoping to take advantage of Shanghai's shopping scene.

When asked why she chose custom-make clothes, one Western woman said: "If it doesn't fit, you can alter it as much as you like".

Retail therapy

For some, it has even become an obsession: good tailors - ones who can do good workmanship, who are bilingual mind-readers and who are cheap - are well kept secrets. The apparently chaotic Dongjiadu cloth market offers the right place to dive into the process of finding the best fabrics and tailors and to test bargaining for a cheaper price.

Some have gone beyond clothes to have their gloves, hats and even shoes custom-made. Enthusiasts who prefer trendy designs ask for replicas of the latest designer dresses.

In contrast, an unlikely development is taking place among the locals. As more Chinese become richer, they have apparently become more brand-conscious in an effort to display their wealth. A ratio of 70 per cent foreigners and 30 per cent local customers at Henry Chiu's tailor shop underlines this trend. He says that "Chinese people would rather buy famous brands even if it is more expensive". As a result, unbranded tailor-made clothes are unpopular with the "nouveaux riche" Chinese. In addition, with the arrival of cheap mass-produced clothes, the average Chinese has shunned the tradition and prefers the more convenient option of the shops.

The stereotype

With a tape measure around his neck and a piece of chalk in hand, the typical Shanghai tailor sketches out the outline of the garment on checkered fabric. A customer wanders into the shop with a collection slip. The tailor looks up and greets him like an old friend.

The tailor had started out as an apprentice as early as 16 years old, living and working with his shifu (master). He started his own business in a small shop, marketing himself through word of mouth and personal recommendations. He works virtually 12 hours a day, seven days a week. Most of his customers are regular patrons, many of whom are foreigners. He speaks none or little English, picking up essential phrases from his clients or even being self-taught out of a dictionary.

Many of these tailors still exist in Shanghai, but the trend in the industry is moving towards the amalgamation of individual tailors, who combine their skills with the advantages of belonging to a big company in the modern economy. There has also been an appearance of a new business model, which offers the skills of an experienced tailor, Italian and British labeled fabrics, and quality service, all at a premium price. It is aimed at the upper end of the market.

It is also meant to meet the demands of the brand awareness of the Chinese as well as the foreigners' love for a custom-made garment. Another development seen in the business is the use of small factories to do the sewing, leaving the tailors more time for face-to-face work with clients, such as the measuring and discussion of personal requests. Unfortunately, this may lead to a mismatch between a customer's wish and the final product.

Looking forward

There are mixed opinions within the industry regarding the future of tailoring in Shanghai and China. Some believe the trade will stay steady, as it has found its niche market - be it expatriates who can't shop in local stores, well-to-do people who have a passion for made-to-measure clothes, or tourists looking for a good souvenir.

Others hope that with the rise of modern Shanghai, tailoring will become more popular. It is expected that people will realize the benefits of top-quality fabrics and workmanship. A change in the customer mix, with the proportion of Chinese patronage increasing, is also anticipated.

According to a local tailor, surnamed Chu, who has been in the business for 71 years, companies will consolidate further, volume will grow and tailoring brands will develop.