DRIVEN by his strong desire for international travel, Ivan A. Goncharov, the outstanding Russian writer of critical realism, started out on his ocean voyage in 1852, working as the secretary of the commander of a Russian sailing cruiser - the Pallada.

Setting out from St. Petersburg, the Pallada carried Goncharov to many coastal countries and regions abutting the Pacific, Atlantic and Indian Oceans. He finally arrived in China in November 1853, when Shanghai was in a turbulent period.

At that time, the Western forces were strengthening their grip and concessions were being established one by one. Under the influence of the Taiping Rebellion, the uprising of the "Small Swords" broke out in the same year.

It was on a drizzly day that Goncharov arrived to Shanghai. Row upon row of foreign merchant ships were moored at the both sides of the Huangpu River. Goncharov could easily see how vigorously foreign trade had sprung up in this newly opened port.

However, the early Western commerce with China was mainly directed to the opium trade, which not only plundered China's raw materials and local products but ruined the health of Chinese.

During his short visit, Goncharov soon realized the destructive character of Western trade with China. So, he wrote with indignant feeling in his travel notes that although the trade volume of Shanghai had come to exceed that of Hong Kong and Guangzhou, it totally depended on the opium trade! The opium trade deprived Chinese of their tea, silk, and medicinal materials and it wrung blood, sweat and energy - the whole life - out of the Chinese.

With only a glimpse at the life of Edward Cunningham in Shanghai, the luxurious existence of Western plunderers could clearly be seen. Cunningham was the American vice-consul in Shanghai.

During his stay in Shanghai, Goncharov was invited to a feast at Cunningham's home. Looking at the rich food on the table, he could not help wondering how it would be possible to eat so many delicacies. As for Cunningham's dwelling place, it was one of the most extravagant buildings in Shanghai, having cost about US$50,000 and graced with a magnificent garden.

While in Shanghai, Goncharov observed everything with keen insight and great interest. The first place he visited was the British concession, where he found that the Western bank of the Huangpu River had been developed into a Western-style area under British management. Along the main street (today's Bund), he met lots of people passing to and fro. Many of them were dockers who carried heavy loads of cargo while rushing in a great hurry. A group of men with long braids winding around their heads stood patiently waiting for the chance of employment.

Goncharov also visited the busy and exciting market in the French concession. Walking through the long and narrow lanes was like navigating a maze. Gancharov was deeply impressed by the various traditional Chinese snacks. In China, everything seemed to be a source of food and everything could be eaten.

After spending 22 days in Shanghai, Goncharov left China. In his book "The Frigate Pallada" he said that the Chinese were an active and energetic people, despite the fact they were living in poverty.

(The author is from the Shanghai Academy of Social Sciences)