From New York to Shanghai

Shanghai Star. 2003-11-13

By Zheng Zu`an

CHINA became the favoured destination of ever-growing numbers of foreigners from all around the world in the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

At the same time, Chinese were themselves going abroad, to study, work or simply travel. Going abroad, especially since the cost of ocean travel was involved, required careful planning and budgeting by young Chinese tourists in the late 19th and early 20th century.

One such tourist in the 1920s was Zhao Zongjin, who had just graduated from Columbia University in New York. After successfully finishing five years of study, Zhao decided to reward himself with a round-the-world return trip on his way home to Shanghai.

Realizing he was not a well-to-do student, Zhao made careful calculations and travelled as cheaply as he could. He had already visited most places of historical interest in the US during his studies so Europe was his main destination as a tourist.

Travellers today need passports and visas, but even 80 years ago not all European countries required them. For instance, in the Netherlands, travellers staying for less than a week didn't need a visa and in Switzerland, visas were not required at all. In the end Zhao needed travel documents for only three countries - Britain (US$2 for a visa), France (US$3.20) and Germany (US$2.40).

Zhao knew he had to change some of his US dollars into European currencies but was told that it was difficult to exchange US dollars in Europe. So, he bought 10 pounds sterling worth of traveller's cheques and 1,000 French francs.

However, when Zhao arrived in Europe, he found that currency exchange bureaux were everywhere and the US dollar exchange rate was better than in New York. By believing what he had been told in New York, Zhao had lost some of his carefully hoarded savings.

The ship Zhao took from New York to Europe was named the "George Washington". He bought a third-class ticket costing US$87.50 plus 5 per cent tax which entitled him to three meals a day plus free drinks.

The ship reached Portsmouth in England after a seven-day trans-Atlantic crossing. During his days on board ship, Zhao gave tips to the ship's stewards as was the usual practice - US$2 for housekeeping and US$2 for food service.

Zhao took a train from Portsmouth to London which cost US$7.50. When in London, Zhao found a nice hotel which had been recommended by a friend. The hotel was convenient to transport and the rooms were cheap.

Like New York, prices in London were very expensive but Zhao discovered that admission to London museums was free of charge three days a week and those were the days he visited them.

After a good time in London, Zhao left for Paris where he found a cheap hotel close to Paris University. A Chinese restaurant was opposite the hotel where Zhao could enjoy food from his homeland and save money at the same time.

Paris was a city of high culture with a splendid history. Zhao spent almost 10 days sight-seeing and spent all his 1,000 francs.

In Paris, Zhao booked a rail ticket to Belgium, the Netherlands and Germany. Prices in Belgium were lower than in Paris but living standards in the Netherlands were higher than in France and Belgium. The cost of living in Germany was also high and Zhao wasn't able to enjoy himself because of the language barrier.

After leaving Germany, Zhao took the train to Switzerland. To save money, he didn't book a sleeping berth and sat up the whole night. The food in the train was also expensive but Zhao had prudently bought enough food before getting on board.

In Zurich, Zhao decided to splurge and treated himself to a stay in a first-class near the lake.

At the end of his travels through Switzerland, Zhao headed back to France and the ship that would take him home to Shanghai. This ship was not up to the standard of the "George Washington" being smaller and the food was also bad. Still, Zhao arrived back in Shanghai with happy memories of his world tour.

Adding everything up that he had spent from New York to Shanghai, Zhao found he had outlayed a total of US$360, including transport, accommodation, meals, and other expenses.

(The author is from the Shanghai Academy of Social Sciences)



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