FASHION is a cycle with no truth, just a bargain between beauty and power, according to Bao Mingxin, a well-known commentator on fashion in China and a professor at Donghua University.

"I can say most model competitions are not fair at all," he said. "The catwalk stage is bright and beautiful but backstage, it's so dark..."

The black curtain behind the catwalk was first pulled back on the evening of December 13, 2000 when China International Fashion Week was held.

It was supposed to end with a grand award ceremony for the event's supermodels. But it actually ended with several supermodels, such as Chen Juanhong, severely criticizing the competition. They also released a declaration asking for the modelling industry to be regulated.

This action is thought to be the first big step in lifting the "black curtain" hiding what is really happening on the catwalks of China.

But the criticism didn't put an end to "wire pulling" in model competitions. On the contrary, scandals never seem to stop. Last September, in the Lingxiu Cup 2003 Xinsilu Model Competition, the models complained bitterly about the contest and the judge even declared that the result of the competition would not stand.

Profitable business

Despite criticism like this, similar competitions are constantly being held and the names of the top 10 models or Miss Shanghai or some other winner appear one after another.

"It seems that there were dozens of such competitions in the second half of this year and I am confused and wonder if the country has enough beauties available to be selected," said Yang Shenqing, managing director of Yifei Models Agency Co Ltd (Shanghai), pointing to a long list of beauty competition information.

"Model competitions are a high-profit business rather than a selection process. Even for a small-scale competition, the profit can amount to dozens of thousands of yuan," said Bao who seems to be regularly invited as a professional guest to various fashion events.

Some enterprises are more inclined to support a model show than a high-tech exhibition because beautiful girls are always more eye-catching and attract the media.

"In addition, the organizer can also make money from the aspiring models through charging different fees," Bao said.

The basic charge is the entry fee which may run into several hundred yuan. But in the second round, the fee is much higher because of the training involved which lasts for one or two weeks. Normally that fee comes to several thousand yuan, a month's salary for a white collar worker in Shanghai. A fee of more than 10,000 yuan (US$1,210) would not be rare, according to the expert.

The training sessions include deportment on the catwalk, skin care, hair dressing and the like. It can be of great help to young, inexperienced models, some of whom are as young as 14 years old.

During competitions, models are also asked to do extra shows because they have to repay various sponsors. "Of course, they are not paid for this. I have often seen girls worn out backstage after too much 'catwalking'," Bao said.

And, in the end, the promised bonuses and gifts always fall short of expectations. Usually, winning models get no cash bonus but cosmetics and watches from sponsors instead.

Corrupt judges

There are many reasons for the unfairness of modelling contests, the experts said.

"During the competition, deals between power and beauty are the norm," said one insider who asked not to be named. He said on occasions, financial supporters or sponsors were added to the panel of judges. "Of course, they are male, they would like certain girls to do well, so they promise judges rewards. Under such pressure, some weak professional judges are compromised and give out marks in the way they have been paid to.

"But some honest judges disagree. On several occasions I have seen judges quarrelling angrily about the result."

If they cannot get agreement from the real judges, the so-called judges bribe computer staff and get them to give fake high marks to some girls.

"And of course, in almost every competition, we see aspiring models or their parents crying or quarrelling because the promises made to them were not 'honoured'," the insider said.

Some big modelling companies are also criticized for their monopoly hold on competitions. Yang said: "They do have so many problems but ... the aim of a company holding a model competition is always to promote its own stars.

"But there are too many competitions now, with no regulation at all, it makes a murky pool.

"I think the government or the business association should take on the responsibility of regulating this industry. We can't allow such a disordered situation to last any longer."

Irresistible lure

Bao said: "The competition is very intense but most girls still seem crazy for it because, compared with other jobs, modelling, obviously, looks an easier way to earn money, no matter by what means."

Today in Shanghai, a top model's income is very attractive. Generally speaking, they can earn 5,000 yuan (US$605) from one show and their monthly income can be dozens of thousands of yuan.

"Earn big money, be a star, that's what attracts most young girls," Yang said.

He said the company received five to six calls every day from young girls keen to present themselves.

But to be a star is extremely difficult. Shanghai has only about 300 professional models selected from thousands of candidates. What's more, only several make it to super stardom, Yang said.