The ancient docks, waterside pavilions and corridors stretch
out for miles, creating a distinctive atmosphere that is
typical of watertowns south of the Yangtze River
— the perfect spot for a tranquil retreat

A small boat maneuvers the waterway.

FOR travellers looking to venture off the beaten path, Wu Zhen, a watertown possessing a cultural heritage of 1,000 years in north Zhejiang Province, is the place to go.

Wu Zhen, which is less than two hours from Shanghai, boasts the antiquity and charm of the popular Zhou Zhuang watertown, but remains surprisingly untouched by tourists, especially those from abroad.

Beautifully carved beds

The ancient docks, waterside pavilions, and corridors stretch for miles creating a distinctive atmosphere that is typical of watertowns south of the Yangtze River - the perfect spot for a tranquil retreat.

Passing through the 200-year-old town gate, which was fully restored in 1999, visitors are transported back in time. From traditional rice wine to handspun cloth, wonders are awaiting the curious traveller in this peaceful borough.

Wu Zhen lit up at night.

Boat boxing

The houses along the Dongshi River - East City River - are different from those of other watertowns. Instead of being constructed on the river banks, these 100-year-old plus buildings stand detached in the water. Staircases descend beneath most homes, creating personal piers for every resident's most valued possession - a boat.

Boat boxing, an activity dating back to the South Song Dynasty (1127-1279), highlights the intimate relationship townspeople have with their boats. In earlier times, men practised martial arts onboard to protect the town and often held exhibitions for the public. Today visitors can still enjoy displays of this special skill as boatsmen perform daily between 8:30am and 4:30pm.

The river's God of Fortune Bend, an enlarged area of the waterway for boats to turn around, is found at the far end of town. In watertowns, a large bend is a symbol of wealth, as larger boats need more space to manoeuvre. Wu Zhen's bend is guarded by a shrine to the God of Fortune.

According to legend, a mortal servant, loyal to a depraved master, cut out his heart and gave it to the terrible man in a show of devotion. After dying, the servant became a god dedicated to helping the poor - the God of Fortune. Today, townspeople in Wu Zhen continue to make offerings at the shrine for this talisman.

To reach the shrine from Wu Zhen's main entrance, visitors must cross over the Fengyuan Double Bridge, the most fascinating of the town's 11 stone-crafted bridges. Covered by delicate wood-carved panels, the two thin stone structures, which stand side-by-side, are both beautiful and functional. Fengyuan stands at the head of the bend to mark the town's water entrance, which was once protected by a gate that slid down between the two bridges, stopping boats from passing beneath.

Classic design

From the bend, visitors can enjoy a pleasant stroll along East Road, a narrow street running parallel to the river. Change appears to have ignored this quiet lane, which is filled with the sights and sounds of villagers pursuing everyday rituals.

Behind this pedestrian facade, many treasures await the curious. Along East Road, visitors find the Jiangnan 100 Beds House, a collection of traditional wood carved beds from the area south of the Yangtze River, known as Jiangnan. Anyone who appreciates Chinese wood-crafted furnishings will be taken with this display, which includes beds dating back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

These giant beds were popular in the Yangtze River Delta region. However, artisans were not enthusiastic about undertaking such work, as it is said to produce one bed decreases a craftsman's life by many years.

An example of this exhausting work is the Qiangu Babu Flower bed from the period of the Qing Dynasty, which is adorned with 106 intricately carved figures and ox bone inlay, and has a dressing table and toilet built into its structure.

Nearby is the Folk Customs Hall, where visitors can view miniature exhibits of the year's 12 special days. Typical scenes from the Dragon Boat festival to the Mid-Autumn special are re-created with small figurines.

Sensual treats

After a busy morning of sightseeing the exquisite, Hanlin Fudi Restaurant, near Wu Zhen's main shopping area, is recommended for lunch. The tipang (28 yuan), a pork leg first steamed then cooked in the wok with delicious sauce and spices, is irresistible. The meat is so tender, it falls apart at the touch of chopsticks.

Xiao Baoyu (10 yuan), a cold dish of fried and salted local fish, is a tangy accompaniment to the exceptionally strong Chou Doufu, or stink beancurd (8 yuan).

The finale to any meal is the town's special dessert, Jiuniang,Yuanzi (12 yuan), a tangy, sweet mixture of the town's unique wine and sticky rice.

Hanlin Fudi is not the only place to enjoy food and beverage in town. Wu Zhen's East City River is lined with many eateries and teahouses. These establishments provide a perfect spot for relaxing on a sunny afternoon.

Beyond the sensual delights of eating and drinking, are small trinket shops, offering many finds for ardent shoppers. Along East Road at Xinhua Lu, treasure seekers will discover Huang Yanxin, a local artist who sells detailed sketches of Wu Zhen. Huang explained that the ancient character of the town inspires him with a sense of youth from which he draws great inspiration.

Farther down the road is the Former Residence of Mao Dun (1896-1981). Mao, who was a close friend of Soong Ching Ling, became one of the first members of the Communist Party in 1921.

Not far from Mao's residence is the Flower-printed Blue Cloth Workshop, where handspun fabric is dyed by traditional methods. Visitors will not be able to resist purchasing at least one object made from this timeless cloth.

The Sanbai Jiu Winery is the site of the town's special liquor. In English Sanbai stands for three whites, white rice, white wheat flour, and the winery's special ingredient, white water - deep well water from the Wu Zhen region. A taste test will knock anyone off their feet. Bottles of wine are a must buy for visitors.

This summer, Wu Zhen is the perfect destination for travellers looking for something different.

Travel tips A mini-van departs from Hutai Long-distance bus station at 12:35 every day and the 2.5-hour journey costs 25 yuan. Also, tourists in Shanghai can take tour buses at Hongkou Stadium or at Shanghai Stadium on weekends and public holidays. Time: 8:00am (Hongkou Stadium), 7:50am and 8:45am (Shanghai Stadium). The cost is 100 yuan per person, including round-trip tickets and admission fee. The price per person with a tour guide is 128 yuan.