A spot treasured by nature that teems with marine life

 

Hotel Shangri-La Tanjung Aru has a view of the ocean and the five coral islands.

THE east Malaysian state of Sabah, formerly British North Borneo, is filled with natural wonders and contains a mixture of 32 ethnic communities.

Its rainforests are some of the oldest in the world, and its Mt. Kinabalu is the highest in Southeast Asia.

Sipadan Island is Malaysia's only true oceanic island; it teems with marine life and is a popular destination for divers.

Rich history

Members of the "Kitchen Band" play every night in the lobby.

The Sunset Bar is a relaxing experience.

Known to maritime traders seeking shelter from typhoons as "the land below the wind", Sabah has been occupied by Austronesians for at least 5,000 years.

As early as the 9th century AD, while ruled by ethnic chieftains, it was trading with China and later with the Portuguese and Spaniards.

In the 1800s, several merchant adventurers secured endowments of territory from local rulers, and in 1881, the North Borneo Chartered Company was incorporated.

After World War II, Sabah became a British Crown Colony and in 1963 gained independence and joined Malaysia.

Acrophobia

Mt. Kinabalu, at 4,101 metres, has some of the richest and most diverse flora in the world, ranging from the lowland dipterocarp zone through the montane oak, rhododendron and conifer forests to alpine meadow plants and stunted bushes of the summit zone.

A view of the South China Sea from the Sunset Bar at Shangri-La Tanjung Aru

There are over 1,200 species of wild orchid and 40 varieties of oak, not to mention countless blooms, mosses and ferns. The mountain park is a sanctuary for mammals, birds and reptiles.

Our guide told us to put on extra clothes because the temperature could drop from, say, 27 to 21 degrees centigrade in a very short time. We were also warned to follow the group, otherwise we could be lost in the mountains for weeks.

There are many mysteries to explore during a hike through the damp, lush rainforest. Overlooking the jungles, the canopy walkways were challenging and rewarding, and would scare some acrophobes. It reminded me of a movie set in the jungle starring Sylvester Stallone or Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Our stay of half a day in the mountains was too short. A comfortable timetable for climbing Mt. Kinabalu is three days, with stays in mountain huts along the trail that allow you to appreciate the sights and sounds of nature.

Time for a Tiger

Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, comprising five islands, is 20 minutes by speedboat from Kota Kinabalu, capital of Sabah.

It is home to a variety of flora and fauna, including an intriguing bird, the Megapode or Burung Tambun, a chicken lookalike with large feet which meows like a cat.

With stretches of white sandy beaches, clear waters and diverse coral reefs, this is an ideal spot for rookie divers as well as for snorkelers and picnickers.

We went to the small island of Sapi, which boasts white sand beaches and teeming coral reefs for swimming, diving and snorkeling.

Observing the colourful fish, kayaking or waterbiking through the blue sea into the less peaceful bay, leaves sight-seers breathless. Across the South China Sea from this wonderland lies Hainan Island.

Several Malay youths prepared a barbecue for us. The only regret was that there was no beer.

Mysterious skulls

Chinese travellers will feel very comfortable in Sabah, because Mandarin and Cantonese are spoken, as well as Malay and English.

Making up a third of the population, the Kadazan-Dusuns live in the interior plains, and were originally paddy farmers, although many have ventured into other trades.

The Muruts, who live in the interior region near the borders of Sarawak and Kalimantan, are agriculturists and hunters, and were once headhunters. Many still live in longhouses.

The guide told us stories about the Kadazans before we reached the Monsopiad cultural village.

Located 10kms south of Kota Kinabalu, this Kadazan village is named after a revered warrior. It houses a museum, a reconstruction of a longhouse, handicraft workshops and a restaurant serving indigenous delicacies.

Dozens of skulls hang overhead, making the longhouses a mysterious and scary place. But the Kadazans are friendly people.

Young Kadazans invited us to dance with them, play their musical instruments and taste their snacks and wines.

Beds in the East

Hotel Shangri-La Tanjung Aru is 10 minutes from Kota Kinabalu International Airport, the city centre and coral islands. The rooms have a view of the ocean and the five islands.

The Sunset Bar is a must after a day's trip. Relaxing in the ocean breeze, you feel there is only sunset, you and the South China Sea.

The other hotel we stayed at, the Shangri-La Rasa Ria, reposes among villages some 40 minutes from the airport. It has its own nature reserve and orang-utans (a Malay word meaning "wild men"), private beaches and golf courses.

The orang-utans, naughty animals, make you laugh when you meet them.

The hotel staff is happy to join in and play beach volleyball with guests.

Some of our volleyball partners worked in the kitchen and were members of the "Kitchen Band", which plays every night in the lobby.

Chopsticks, plates and pots, the music and sounds make for an entertaining evening.