WHEN the temperature drops sharply in winter, we need to eat a hot dinner to warm up. But where to go is a problem. Ordinary Chinese restaurants are too cold, but hot pots are too crowded and noisy.

One alternative is Shudi Spicy Fish, a pleasant and inexpensive Sichuanese restaurant near Shanghai Drama Arts Centre.

The restaurant is in a rebuilt, Western style three-storey building and looks more like a European coffee bar than a Chinese restaurant: dark wood floor, small square or long tables, soft orange lights, decorative street lamps, and pottery hanging on the walls.

The influence of several nearby arts centres is reflected everywhere in the restaurant. Its plates, cups, teapots and bowls have coloured drawings and patterns of beautiful leaves and flowers.

The tea served here is specially made of barley. The thirsty satisfying drink smells like coffee that used to be popular with farmers in the countryside.

Spicy fish is a must here. Red capsicums mixed with white fish and yellow pickles rise to the top of the boiled soup. Raw ingredients are specially chosen to made this soup. Chillis are from Southwest China's Sichuan Province. The soupstock is made with pork bones. The fish is spicy, and soup is terrific. The longer it's boiled, the better it tastes.

Chicken with Bamboo Fragrance is another good dish. The name comes from the container, which is a folded bamboo net. Baked green garlic roots and bright chillis are spread on the bottom and chicken are then scattering among them. Because of the mixed smells of garlic roots and chillis, the taste of the chicken is unforgettable.

If one can't eat spicy food, there are other choices available, such as stone beef, leek cakes, lotus with meat and eggplants cooked with potatoes.

Different from many Shanghai restaurants, all dishes are generous and prices are moderate. Three to four dishes are enough for two people.

Add: 187 Anfu Lu near Shanghai Drama Arts Centre

Tel: 6437-7684

Reservations recommended